If you tell a Taiwanese person you’re going to Tainan, they’ll give you a list of things to eat. As the culinary capital of Taiwan, people come from all over to eat its famous xiaochi (small eats) and do good deeds at its many shrines.
There’s more to this southern city than snacks and temples, though. In recent years, a lot of people from Taipei have moved to Tainan’s low-rent neighbourhoods for a much quieter life. This has led to a lot of new places to eat, drink, and shop. Here are some favourites:
Where to eat in Tainan
The restaurant Zyuu Tsubo is in a building that used to be a rubber factory. It has a menu that is heavy on seafood and combines Japanese techniques with Taiwanese ingredients. The original factory fixtures are still in this 10-seat, narrow restaurant, which also has polished wood, rattan panelling, and chrome fittings. The interior is rough around the edges on purpose, but the food isn’t. With a focus on fresh, high-quality seafood and beautiful presentation, it’s easy to see why locals often wait in line to get a seat. Their harako meshi is a bowl of vinegary rice with Norwegian salmon, fish roe, and fresh wasabi on top. Their long tian yang (fried chicken marinated in soy sauce) and kaisen don, which is full of sashimi, scallops, and squid, also come highly recommended.
At Sputnik Lab, it’s also hard to miss how Japanese Tainan is (). This tatami-floored building used to be a dorm for Japanese government workers stationed here almost 100 years ago. It is now a teahouse that serves a variety of matcha-based desserts. It’s as Kyoto as it gets, with a Japanese bamboo garden and a strict “no shoes” rule. It’s easy to miss, so look behind the group of Indonesian warungs to find its entrance.
At Sensory 68, which is on Zhengxing Street, which is full of cafes, the focus is on healthy comfort food with an international flair. The food at this bright, plant-filled restaurant is all fresh, and the dishes change every day based on what’s available at the morning market. Think colourful bowls of vegetables, salads, and stews that are beautifully presented with herbs from the restaurant’s courtyard and served on ceramics that you can buy at the small boutique on the premises.
Where to drink in Tainan
The Checkered Record Club, which goes by the name TCRC, was named one of Asia’s 50 Best Bars in 2016 and 2018. Since then, it has always been packed. This bar, which is in a building that used to be a bank, serves expertly made cocktails in a casual setting. There isn’t a list of drinks, but the classics are strong and on point, and the special drinks are made with local ingredients in mind. If you want to try something different, ask about the weekly specials. For example, the Pizza Margarita has blue cheese-washed gin, clarified tomato juice, basil, and lime juice.
A 10-minute drive away, Lola has the same laid-back vibe, but you don’t have to wait an hour to get a seat there. This cosy bar is in a small residential alley and is filled with old furniture, vinyl records that are hard to find, and pieces of the building’s Qing Dynasty past. It has the usual drinks and a few special drinks made with local spirits, like the Yoko, which is made with plum wine, green tea, and vodka. It’s also a popular place to see live music, so check the event calendar ahead of time.
There are many charming coffee shops in Tainan, but PariPari is one that you should look for. This antique store/cafe was opened by a group of designers from Taipei and nearby Kaohsiung. It looks like a kissaten, which is a retro Japanese coffee salon. This is a tribute to the original owners of the building, who studied in Japan in the 1950s. The owner roasts the beans in his own roastery, and you can order snacks like cheesecake and sandwiches.
Where to shop in Tainan
The best place to buy gifts in Mapquest Directions Tainan is also one of the city’s oldest. In its heyday in the 1930s, the Hayashi Department Store attracted wealthy locals who wanted to ride the island’s second elevator. After a much-needed renovation from 2006 to 2014, it now draws tourists who want to buy souvenirs. On its shelves, you’ll find Taiwanese teas, condiments, and spices, all of which come in vintage-style packaging and would make great gifts. You’ll also find Taiwanese clothing, stationery, and odd home goods made by Taiwanese designers. Don’t miss the observatory deck and the only Shinto rooftop shrine in Taiwan, which are both on the top floor.
Next door is Dou Maison, which is the flagship store of the Taiwanese fashion brand Duochanglee. It has a brutalist black-and-white interior with several retail concepts. On the ground floor, there is a concept store with a well-curated collection of indie magazines, coffee paraphernalia, contemporary jewellery, and leather accessories, most of which are made by Taiwanese designers. On the second floor, you can find the brand’s own elegant ready-to-wear clothes. On the third floor, there is an antique store that sells European furniture that was brought in from other countries.
At Deerhouse, a family-run business that sells Japanese ceramics of all shapes and sizes, there isn’t a single flat surface that isn’t filled. This tiny shop has three floors full of stacks of new and old bowls, plates, and glasses that were all brought in from Japan. Funny enough, most of their customers are Japanese tourists.
You can find more Japanese trinkets at Mu Er, a small shop just a few doors down from Lola’s. Here, owner Yuting Xu, a designer from Kaohsiung, has turned a run-down warehouse into a dark showroom for vintage and handmade items from Japan and Taiwan. It sells a variety of beautifully made ceramics, woodworks, and jewellery. The antique displays and rustic flower arrangements are just as beautiful as the products themselves.
